Yokohama ’26
Friday, April 10
We were booked for a late-afternoon flight to Tokyo for our series of shows at this year’s Yokohama Jug Band Festival. The last time we did this was 11 years ago, in 2015; I made a video about it here.
I was working in the morning, so I took all my stuff, including my trumpet, my big purple backpack and two large orange washtubs, to the office in the morning after an ill-advised late-night packing spree that had me leaving the Water Curtain Cave with too many clothes and too little sleep.
After a lunch at a nearby cafe, I took the MRT to Songshan Airport, hauling the tubs, which was awkward at best. People kept staring and muttering things like, “Is he, like, just always ready to take a bath or something?” I wanted to point at them and say “Of course! And where are all your tubs, then?”
Slim showed up as I sat in the airport lounge area next to a self-playing piano that could have used lessons, and we boxed the tubs at a nearby packing place. David, Robyn, Cristina, Zach, Scarlett, and Tim arrived, and I went to get some travel insurance while they greeted each other and caught up. Scarlett, now almost five, is still beholden to her middle name, playing on the railing which was thankfully protected by glass (though I wonder if she knew that).
Immigration was smooth, and soon we had boarded a China Airlines Airbus that was so old it used USB-A and didn’t even have Bluetooth (shudder). We were all sitting together, so we didn’t have window seats, which were instead wasted on people who don’t appreciate glittering views of nighttime Tokyo. But it was lovely, so lovely, to be flying again, traveling again for real after so many years. I’ve been so full of constant, grinding anxiety lately that I really needed a trip, to Japan, Tokyo no less. And with friends, too, though unfortunately Chenbl couldn’t make it this time.
Despite warnings of turbulence from the cockpit, the flight was smooth; even the typically meh China Airlines cuisine failed to dampen my spirits. Tokyo Haneda airport, despite being the city airport as opposed to Narita, was still impressive and full of tourists, which I’d heard about but hadn’t experienced on this kind of scale before; line after line, kiosk after kiosk, snaking across football field-sized processing areas. We made it through with patience on everyone’s part, and nobody even batted an eye at my passport.
It was too late to take the train out to Yokohama, so we’d hired a large van. The driver, who we’d assumed was Japanese, communicated with gestures until we realized he was actually from Northeastern China, whereupon we had a lively conversation. Well, the others did, particularly David, who dusted off his “mainland” accent. I was just gazing out the back window at all the cage-less, non-grated building windows.
It was quite late by the time we arrived at our hotel, once again the Plumm, where we stayed 11 years ago when we played at this festival in 2015. We’d shared rooms that time, but now we had our own rooms, for which I was quite grateful. It was so very satisfying to be staying in a tiny Japanese hotel room once again, with its clean, standard plastic bathroom and fresh white towels, just like those delightful old days of yore when I used to take such trips more often.
But we had several shows and activities lined up for the next day, so while the others chatted outside, I took a hot shower and went to bed.
Saturday, April 11
Sleep was hard to come by, possibly because of the travel vibe I’d been soaking in. I laid awake until 3am; I might as well have gone out and chatted with Slim, Zach and Conor and gotten the same amount of sleep. Instead, I got up around 9am and went down for the hotel breakfast, which, while not free, was convenient and quite tasty. I had Eggs Benedict, eating with Cristina and Scarlett, who wouldn’t eat much of her kid’s meal except the rice.
The weather outside was brilliant, clear and crisp. I walked over to the Mint auditorium at 11am for the opening conference. Mooney, the organizer, was on stage with another of his band members dressed up in a parody of the current Japanese prime minister. Together they named all of the 60-odd jug bands in attendance, including some commentary and jokes that I did not understand. After I nabbed a couple of Festival shirts that had our name on them, David, Andrew and I went to the mall below the massive Yokohama Station, where I got a bento to enjoy as I sat by a canal.
Then it was back to the hotel to charge my batteries as well as those of my devices, and then out around 3, walking over to the space under the bridge where they’d held one of the events last time, flanked by a curious little old building with four tiny units. I always wonder who lives there and what it’s like inside. Nothing was happening there now, but it was cool to be standing in that space again, watching the trains and people pass by.
A few jug bands were setting up by the river to jam. I walked back over towards the afternoon venue, passing another one located in what looked like a parking garage, then over to the one that had been over the river before, but was now in a little square by a department store. As I approached between the buildings the sound was horribly screechy, but when I got to the square it was ok again. My old friend Louis, who was just in Taipei last week, showed up to listen to our show.
After the show I walked around the area some more, pausing on the blue bridge from the venue building over the river between it and the station, enjoying the cool vibe of Yokohama on jug band festival weekend. Louis happened by, and we walked around through the crowds of festive holiday-makers looking for something to eat while Louis talked about how strange he found Yokohama compared with Tokyo. I said it kind of felt like Keelung, or rather, Yokohama is to Tokyo as Keelung is to Taipei…both history-laded seaports close to the capital with dodgy histories and an intermix of cultures. We had fish and chips at an underground British pub called the Tavern. It was good; I always enjoy my conversations with Louis.
But I had to go back to the hotel to get my jacket as the day was cooling, and I’d likely need it after the evening show. The venue, Thumbs Up, was absolutely packed. I sat for a while outside in the hall as people came and went after the show, wondering if anything else was going to happen, but it had been a long day so I went back to the hotel to sleep.
Sunday, April 12
Breakfast at the Plumm again, this time by myself, reading a book and gazing at people walking by in the brilliant sun outside. It was a bright day, but windier and cooler than the day before. I’d planned to walk over to a bakery by the fisheries area that Andrew had suggested, but I only got a block before realizing I should probably be wearing a jacket, so I went back.
Walked to the gargantuan Yokohama Station, and noticed a tiny, crooked alley lined with old traditional bars and shops amid the modernity surrounding it, a tiny Golden Gai or Piss Alley in Shinjuku, but it was silent in the morning hours. Perhaps someday I’ll see what it’s like at night.
Looking for a way across the mass of tracks and river bridges, I went up the escalators to the platform that overlooks it all, Facetiming with Chenbl to show him. The way across, of course, was a tunnel underneath. Then Google Maps led me through some really quite boring corporate areas full of gleaming featureless buildings; the only people I saw were a bunch of white kids playing on an old well or something, and a solitary salaryman coming out to a loading dock to grab a smoke.
Soon enough, however, things got interesting as I approached the older neighborhoods surrounding the harbor and canals. Also mostly deserted, but very pleasant. I found the Ainomi Bakery that Andrew suggested, and bought a cinnamon bun, feeling slightly guilty that I wasn’t buying more as the woman who ran it didn’t seem to be exactly swimming in business. The cinnamon roll was good, though, and I ate it sitting in a small park overlooking a large harborside construction park as a young woman walked her dog nearby. As I walked back through the neighborhood, admiring all the clever ways Japanese buildings occupy small spaces, I held back as the dog-walking woman was taking the same route, and I didn’t want to seem creepy.
Back at the main road, I ascended an overpass and passed by a young man with his mobile phone pointed at a homeless guy who was sleeping on the bridge surrounded by a bunch of bags. I wondered if he was making a documentary about the callous people who don’t help unhoused individuals and just walk by, and if I would at some point appear in said documentary, flippantly and uncaringly passing by, but it turned out that the young man had called the police, who, from what I could see from a distance, escorted said unhoused person down off the overpass.
I walked along the tracks back to Yokohama Station, and then took a subway out to the last stop, Chinatown. It was a mess, all tourists, foreigners and Japanese who wanted to partake of what Japan thinks a Chinatown should be, I guess. The reason I was there, even though I dislike the area, was to pay my respects to Matsu and Guan Gong at their respective temples. Once I’d said hello and wished for safe travels, I got some beef curry and coffee jelly at a Veloce café and then got the hell out of Chinatown, escaping over to the harbor and the lovely Hikawa Maru, an old 1930’s cruise ship permanently docked there. A newer, larger cruise ship was docked across the way, I only had eyes for the Hikawa.
The walk up the harbor and up to the baseball stadium among the cafes and trees was marvelous, it was great to be there once again, and in such nice weather. Photographers wielding long lenses were gathered together shooting tulips as baseball fans roared and shouted amid band music from the stadium. After consulting Google Maps, I decided to walk back to the hotel instead of taking the metro; Google said it would be a breeze and take less than an hour.
Well. Google apparently was not taking my slow walking speed into account when it made that estimate. It was a bit of a slog at first, but after I resigned myself to the fact that it would take me a lot longer than I’d thought, it turned out to be a lovely walk, especially when I crossed through desolate neighborhoods as sun got low and shadows got interesting. I do think that Craig Mod‘s ippon ura, or what I call “one alley in” has a somewhat different meaning in Japan, in that Japan tends to keep its main thoroughfares more main thoroughfare-y, so the different when you go one alley in is a bit starker than in Taiwan, though both can be quite rewarding. I especially admire how the trains on elevated tracks and canals all coexist with these buildings. Everything is inches away, and everything is fine.
Eventually I crossed the bridge by the old venue I mentioned earlier on my way back to the Plumm, but I had no time to rest as we were already headed out again, instruments in hand, back to the station, onto a train out to Fujisawa, a neat little station with the usual pedestrian overpass-laden square outside. Chenbl, my sister Leslie and I had actually been there before in 2020, but we’d only seen one side of the station. Night had fallen by this point, the lanterns and bar lights casting a warm tint onto the alleys and workers coming back from work to the bars. Our destination was Hang Loose Grill, a tiny establishment on the top floor of a four-story building, located at the end of a hallway lined with similarly tiny places, most of them music bars but one paralegal office, which I suppose must come in handy.
We were there at the behest of Yuichi, who often plays in Taiwan and who had carefully crafted the washtub stick we’d been using, as we couldn’t take one on the plane. The place was full of local, many older, jug band musicians, with delicious hamburgers cooked on a small but well-appointed kitchen in the corner behind the bar. After a couple of tunes, I played with Scarlett out in the hall as the jam intensified inside.
The trip back to Yokohama was quicker than the one out. It was our last night there, and I didn’t feel like going to bed right away, so I sat outside the Plumm with the others and chatted into the night, watching the people walking by on their way home and wondering what it was like to live there.
Monday, April 13
I needed to buy gifts before we returned to Taiwan, but I didn’t want to do so encumbered by my luggage, so I headed out around 9am back towards the station, where the Takashimaya Department Store was located. It didn’t open until 10, so I had a light breakfast sitting by the window at the front of a Doutor Coffee shop nearby, watching people walk by and just enjoying being in Yokohama. When the time came, I walked through the mall to the entrance to the store, where people were gathering. Two employees appeared and bowed in unison before opening the doors at 10 o’clock, to the exact second. I mistakenly went up to the 7th floor before realizing that what I wanted was downstairs.
Fearing I would be late, I rushed back to the hotel, as we needed to catch the 11:38am train to Haneda airport. We’d given the tubs and stick to Yuichi the night before, so I was just carrying my trumpet and backpack.
The Keikyu Line was located all the way at the other end of the station, so far that I was thinking I needed a metro line just to get there, but I found it eventually. Slim had just arrived as well, and we ascended the wide stairs bearing notice that There is no Elevator So Don’t Even Think About It Even Though You’re Probably Going to the Airport and Have Baggage But You Look Like You Need Exercise So Suck It. Ahead of us an elderly woman was being helped up the stairs by a caregiver, so I’m guessing there really was no elevator anywhere, so sir no how.
David, Robyn, Kai, Andrew and Conor had gone ahead, and the Paradises apparently got on the train from a different point, so it was just Slim and I wondering if everyone would be able to get to the airport on time. The trip took longer than the promised 15 minutes, but we got there via a strangely unsettling reversal of direction halfway through. The others all had to check luggage, so I went ahead through security and to the gate, where I sat for a while when I really should have been having lunch, Chenbl noted when we Facetimed. But by then it was too late, so I was first in line to get on the plane after the Privileged Class. I didn’t have a window seat, so I watched a movie on the way back, and such was my hunger that the China Airlines meal actually tasted good.
Chenbl called just as I was walking out of immigration after we got into Songshan, and I forgot that the others had to wait for baggage. But I couldn’t go back in, so I sat outside waiting, listening to the highly suspect renditions of Phantom of the Opera on the player- and talent-free piano, until I realized that they’d probably used another exit and had all gone their separate ways.
So I gathered my things, got on the metro, and went home. It was a fabulous trip; I’m glad to have had the chance to have such an experience. I did take some video and photos, but those will have to wait until I’m done with all this master’s degree business.
And now, we continue with our regularly scheduled chaos.












